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| Flooded Grapefruit orchards
are filled with fallen fruit. |
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| Many young, tender tomato
and vegetable fields were shredded and ripped from the fields
in South Florida. |
| |
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| In just a matter of a
few hours, Wilma blew through Florida, dropping over a foot
of rain and destroying fruit and vegetable crops. |
TOMATOES (Monday, November 7): Hurricanes never
hit at the right time, but Wilma certainly hit at the worst possible
time. It appears that Mother Nature is once again turning a cold
shoulder…and in this case…a hurricane shoulder…to
tomato crops in Florida. South Florida counties of Palm Beach and
Dade are the #1 and #2 vegetable growing counties during the winter
months, supplying about 45% of the nation’s vegetables from
October to June. Winds and rain shredded plants and leaves, pulled
young, tender plants right out of the ground, blew blossoms and
small fruit right into the ocean. There are three main tomato-growing
regions in Florida, starting north in the Palmetto/Ruskin area.
This area had a lot of fruit ready to harvest from their first fruit
set. Growers are telling us they lost about 25 – 30% of that
fruit. This region’s second set of fruit is destined for harvest
in late November or early December. Those blossoms were completely
taken out, which will mean very little fruit to be harvested from
Thanksgiving to Christmas. Moving further south to the Immokalee/Naples
region, they appear to be the hardest hit, with 80 – 100%
losses. This growing region usually begins harvest in mid-November
and provides the bulk of the U.S. tomato supply from Thanksgiving
through New Years. Growers here are still thinking of re-planting,
but if they do, those crops wouldn’t be ready for harvest
until January, right when Mexico and Homestead will be in full peak
production, which means it may not pay to replant. Besides, of the
10 greenhouses in this region, only 3 survived the storm. Most growers
in this region are still trying to find out where their tractors
ended up. Further south is the Homestead region, which provides
supplies from mid-December through January. Many of the very young
fields were ripped apart, but there is time for growers to replant,
which should allow growers to stay close to their start date of
mid-December. It looks like the toughest time for supplies, quality
and pricing will be from mid-November through early-January, right
during the heart of the holiday season. Mexican supplies won’t
be much help until January. White fly insects and disease heavily
damaged their first set of fruit, which normally helps provide supplies
during the holiday season. Other impacted crops will be Bell Peppers,
Corn, Cucumbers, Eggplant, Green Beans and Squash. Many citrus growers
throughout the region are reporting 30 – 50% losses, which
will affect primarily Grapefruit and Tangerine crops. Growers are
greatly concerned that this storm further spread the citrus canker
disease, which has already caused the destruction of over 70,000
acres of citrus trees in Florida, roughly 10% of their total acreage.
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| Flooded Grapefruit orchards
are filled with fallen fruit. |
| |
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| The pears are actually
wrapped twice during the growth to maturity. These pages from
the field manual show the paper bags they are wrapped in when
they first blossom and once they reach a larger stage of maturity. |
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| Each pear is carefully
wrapped on the tree, protecting the delicate skin from insects
and the elements. |
| |
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| Negative imaging more
accurately reveals the size of the cavity or core of the pear
as compared with that of a domestic pear. |
KOREAN PEARS (Tuesday, November 8): Fairly new
to the Western taste buds, the over 100 varieties of Asian Pears
grown today came originally from Japan. These firm, yet amazingly
juicy pears are grown throughout the West, mainly in the San Joaquin
Valley, north into Oregon. They range in size and color from gigantic
(2 lbs.) and golden brown to about 7 oz. and yellow. In general,
ripe pears are quite firm to the touch, crunchy to the bite and
exceedingly juicy! The most recognized Asian Pear here in the West
is the 20th Century or Nijisseiki. Unlike other pears, Asian pears
are not soft and mushy when they're ripe. Asian pears are firm to
the touch but shattering to the taste buds! If picked too soon,
they will never develop the sweetness and character for which these
fruits are loved. Well, have you heard of a Korean Pear. The skin
of the pear has a light brownish-yellow tint while the inner flesh
is white. This variety is bred to have an extremely thin skin. This
is one of the reasons it must be wrapped when growing. Therefore,
when a bite is taken, the taste is a juicy flesh, not a bitter skin.
They are crispy when eaten and are sweet in taste. Chilled or cooked,
Korean Pears always make a wonderful addition to any meal! The Large
Korean is similar to the Shinko in texture but is a bit sweeter
and surprisingly, unexpectedly juicy. Nothing quite describes the
unique flavor of this pear except to say that it's satisfyingly
delicious. Serve slices of Large Koreans after a meal and you will
not hear any complaints. Enjoy out of hand; serve with Brie, Camembert
or Stilton cheese; add to watercress and spinach salads; use in
filling for flans and pear pie; poach in syrup; drizzle thinly cut
slices with caramel or chocolate; bake or sauté with toasted
slivered almonds or ginger (requires longer cooking time than regular
pears). Korean Pears are often individually wrapped in tissue for
moisture retention. A sweet aroma is the best indicator of ripeness,
not gentle pressure. They'll keep a week or two at room temperature
and up to three months refrigerated. Tender loving care goes into
each and every one of these magnificent pieces of fruit. When they
are still small buds on the tree, each Korean Pear is hand wrapped
to ensure a blemish free appearance as the fruit matures. They are
crisp in texture and offer a mildly sweet, refreshing flavor when
eaten out of hand. Try them in salads, dipped in caramel, or sautéed
in a little butter and brown sugar for a quick dessert.
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| Tree in California loaded
with Satsuma Tangerines, ready to pick. |
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Satsuma: Seedless, Sweet,
Simple to peel
…and sexy. |
SATSUMA MANDARINS (Wednesday, November 9): For
most people, the only Satsuma they know is the one in a can, generally
called “mandarins.” By the way, Tangerines are simply
a class of smaller Mandarins. Tangelos are a class of larger Mandarins.
They are all in the Mandarin family Satsuma mandarins may have originated
in China or Japan but it was first reported in Japan more than 700
years ago where it is now the major cultivar grown. The ancient
Japanese province of Satsuma is in the southern most part of the
island of Kyushu. The first recorded introduction into the United
States was in Florida by George R. Hall in 1876. The name "Satsuma"
is credited to the wife of a United States minister to Japan, General
Van Valkenberg, who sent trees home in 1878 from Satsuma, the name
of a former province, now Kagoshima Prefecture, on the southern
tip of Kyushu Island, where it is believed to have originated. During
the period 1908-1911, approximately a million 'Owari' Satsuma trees
were imported from Japan and planted throughout the lower Gulf Coast
states from the northern Florida Gulf coast to Texas, where an extensive
tangerine industry developed. Even though the Satsuma is one of
the coldest resistant tangerines, the occasional severe freezes
in Florida and Texas have reduced the Satsuma to a cultivar of minor
importance in those growing regions. Today, most Satsumas produced
in the U.S. are grown in California, both in the San Joaquin Valley
and the desert. It is seedless. It is sweet. It is simple to peel.
And some have called them sexy. The Satsuma is undoubtedly the best
Tangerine on earth. And it is the ugliest Tangerine on earth. In
fact, the uglier they are, the better they are. Their peel will
look like it is shriveled and old. That’s just the looseness
of the peel. From now through January, enjoy some of the sweetest
Tangerines of the year.
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| Tangerine with stems and
leaves. |
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| The Fall Glo Tangerine
rings the bell to the start of the winter citrus season. |
FALL-GLO, FAIRCHILD TANGERINES (Thursday, November
10): The Fall-Glo. One of the first Tangerines of the season. Just
when you’re getting thirsty for new citrus, here come the
Fall-Glo. The origin of citrus goes back 20 million years, probably
beginning in Southeast Asia, or what is today Malaysia. From emperors
to peasants, citrus fruits were enjoyed in ancient China, and much
later, in Japan and the South Pacific. Over the centuries, traders
and explorers carried citrus from Asia to the Middle East and Africa,
and to ancient Greece and Rome. Greeks revered citrus highly, considering
it the food of their mythological gods (they even called oranges
“golden apples”!). By the sixth and seventh centuries,
citrus was popular among Europeans, mostly for the fragrant, ornamental
trees; the fruit itself was bitter. Not until Portuguese explorers
brought a sweeter variety to Europe did sweet oranges dominate the
groves of the Mediterranean. Citrus trees are NOT native to Florida.
In 1493, citrus came to the New World on Columbus’ voyage
to the island of Hispaniola. A few years later, another Spanish
explorer, Ponce de Leon, brought citrus seeds to Florida. By 1579,
orange trees were growing in St. Augustine, the oldest European
settlement in the United States. With good growing conditions, groves
were established. St. Augustine and Tampa, with their easily accessible
seaports, grew citrus: oranges, tangerines, lemons and limes. In
1823, the French Count Odet Philippe brought grapefruit from the
West Indies to Florida, planting the first grove near Tampa. As
the citrus industry grew, so did Florida. Growing areas developed
beyond the areas of the coast. In the late 19th century, as the
railroads expanded, trains supplied citrus to other parts of the
nation. The Great Freeze of 1894-95 devastated Florida’s thriving
citrus industry. Fifteen years later, the industry recovered, and
crops became bigger than ever. Today, oranges are the “golden
apples” of Florida, and citrus is one of the state’s
most important industries. Hurricane Charley plowed through central
Florida on August 13, 2004, devastating the citrus industry by destroying
not only the current crop, but also demolishing millions of trees.
This "newcomer" to the tangerine family was born in 1962.
It is cross, bred with the temple orange and tangelo, producing
a highly flavored fruit that tastes great. It's the best of both
worlds! The peel is an outstanding red color with excellent internal
juice.
It’s
only available October and November. Every year, the Fall Glo brings
about the start of the winter citrus season. These early Fall Glos
will have a pretty pale outside color. In fact, growers will treat
the Tangerine with ethylene gas to help bring out the orange color.
Ethylene is a very nature fruit hormone that causes fruit to ripen.
All fruit that ripen, put off ethylene gas. Citrus growers learned
long ago that ethylene also destroys the chlorophyll cells. That’s
why the very early season citrus will be treated with ethylene.
The fruit is mature, but will have some green color to it. The ethylene
treatment destroys the chlorophyll, leaving the pale orange color.
As each week passes, the outside color will naturally improve. Juice
content is excellent and sugar content is improving every single
day. When I first started working in a produce department in a small
town in California, some of my Chinese customers would come in the
store, starting in early December, and ask me, “Are the stems
and leaves in yet?” When I first heart that questions, I was
stumped. But a 3rd generation Chinese American explained that stems
and leaves still attached to the Tangerine is a symbol of good luck
and prosperity for the new year. So, every year, for New Years,
it is common to see Fairchild Tangerines, with stems and leaves
still attached, given as gifts. The Fairchild is one of the popular
tangerines grown in the United States. The Fairchild tangerine is
North America's earliest ripening variety and one of California's
most heavily planted varieties. It’s the “first of the
season” Tangerine. The Fairchild is thin-skinned with what
we call a “zipper skin” that peels easily. They are
sweet, juicy but unfortunately, they do contain seeds, so be careful
when you are giving them to your kids. Mandarins include a diverse
group of citrus fruits that are characterized by bright peel and
pulp color, excellent flavor, easy-to-peel rind and segments that
separate easily. Because all tangerines are mandarins but not all
mandarins are tangerines, mandarins are commonly separated into
four groups: Mediterranean, king, satsuma and common tangerines.
Tangerines are the most important of the mandarin groups, both because
of their widespread culture and because of their use in citrus hybridization.
'Clementine' ('Algerian') originated in Algeria and was introduced
to the U.S. in 1909. It has deep reddish orange color and both the
rind and segments exhibit slightly more adherence than most mandarins.
Fruit of 'Clementine' matures earlier than 'Dancy' and it is usually
smaller; the fruit will store on-tree better than most. The Tangerine
is symbolic of good luck as the word tangerine has the same sound
as the word luck in Chinese. The Fairchild Tangerine has few seeds
with a mild, but tangy flavor. Fairchild mandarin is a hybrid of
Clementine mandarin and Orlando tangelo. The cross was made by J.
R. Furr at the U.S Date and Citrus Station at Indio, California,
and the variety was released in 1964. It has proven to be particularly
well suited to the California and Arizona deserts where it provides
an early season fruit for the market. Fairchild trees are vigorous
with a wide-spreading habit. For best fruit production, a pollinator
is necessary. The fruit is medium-sized, oblate in shape, and has
a thin, slightly pebbled, dark orange rind. Fairchild is not especially
easy to peel and the fruits typically contain many seeds, but the
flesh is quite juicy and the flavor is rich and sweet.
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The very cool
Cinnamon Persimmon. |
CINNAMON PERSIMMON (Friday, November 11): These
are also known as “Hyakume” or “Howard’s
Amagaki,” but is mostly marketed as the “Cinnamon Persimmon,”
named because of its sweet flavor, but with a flesh that has dark
speckling inside, reminiscent of cinnamon. This Cinnamon Persimmon
is prized throughout Asia as “goma.” Properly ripened
and “cured,” these Persimmons will have very little
tannin, which is often associated with regular persimmons. The Cinnamon
Persimmon is a great salad item. Most of this fruit is grown in
California, and most by one man, an 80-year-old man who first brought
seeds over with him from his ancestral home in Japan. Most are grown
in California’s Gold Country, the foothills of the Sierra
Nevada. By the way, can you say “Cinnamon Persimmon”
five times, fast?
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