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| The “iceberg”
lettuce that we know today, didn’t get it’s name
until the 1920s. |
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| Advances in harvest technology
allows growers to harvest, trim and pack lettuce right in the
fields. It’s then taken to the warehouse for hydrocooling
and shipping. |
ICEBERG LETTUCE/ARTICHOKES (Monday, July 25):
They are kissing cousins. Yesterday was “Cousin’s Day,”
so I thought it would be fun to show you two cousins that you never
would have dreamed they were cousins. They are both major crops
in Monterey County, California. In fact, one of them is the “Official
Vegetable” of Monterey County. The other is what brings America’s
grocer cart to Salinas. Two cousins: Artichokes and Iceberg Lettuce.
Turn off the oven. Store away the steamers and stew pots. Salad
season is officially here. Time to enjoy cool, crunchable, colorful
medleys of nutrient-packed raw vegetables. Americans are forever
searching for an identity. In our toys, our clothes, our literature,
our cars, and our even in our salads. A salad, as defined by The
Dictionary of American Food and Drink, is "A dish of leafy
green vegetables dressed with various seasonings, sauces, and other
vegetables or fruits." The salad has been around since ancient
times, named for the Latin for salt (sal), with which the greens
were seasoned before Good Seasons. The signature salad of the 1950s
was the ubiquitous iceberg lettuce wedge with Thousand Island or
French dressing. Many families made their own version of Thousand
Island by mixing mayonnaise and ketchup and, on lucky days, a spoonful
of pickle relish. The lettuce we enjoy in salads, is proof that,
in the plant kingdom, you can "make a silk purse out of a sow's
ear." Its ancestor is a tall spindly pesky weed, which originally
grew along the north shore of the Mediterranean and far into Asia:
the Prickly Lettuce, which has become widespread in this country
and temperate regions over most of the world. It is closely related
to about 40 bothersome foreign weeds found now in the Chicago region:
several more kinds of wild lettuces, Chicory, the Dandelions, the
Sow Thistles, the Rattlesnake Roots, and the Hawkweeds which include
the Devil's Paintbrush. Lettuce and its relatives are members of
the Chicory Family, which belongs to the immense group of Composites.
This family differs in having blossoms that are disks of strap-shaped
flowers without any central disk of tubular flowers. All have a
bitter milky juice that, in the wild lettuces, has such narcotic
and sedative properties that one is called "Wild Opium".
Lettuce has been cultivated more than 2000 years. It is said to
have been served on the tables of a Persian king in 400 B.C. and
is mentioned by Theophrastus, the pupil of Aristotle who was the
pupil of Plato who was the pupil of Socrates. The Roman Emperor,
Augustus Caesar, credited lettuce for his remarkable recovery from
a dangerous illness and subsequently erected a statue in praise
of the vegetable. Lettuce is a vegetable that is pretty much immune
to any form of preservation. You can't freeze it, can it, dry it,
or pickle it. Rinse lettuce just before serving in very cold water.
Pat dry with a clean towel. Limp leaves can be revived by immersing
in ice water for a few minutes. Tear lettuce leaves into pieces.
If practical, do not cut or sliced lettuce leaves in advance. Damaged
cut lettuce leaves release an ascorbic acid oxidase, which destroys
vitamin C. Cut edges also discolor quickly. Dry leaves before serving.
Salad dressing will cling to dry lettuce leaves instead of sinking
to the bottom of the salad bowl. Toss with your favorite dressing
just before serving (or serve dressing on the side) Lettuce leaves
covered with dressing will quickly wilt. It has a delicate mild
to sweet flavor with a firm crisp texture. Look for signs of freshness
in lettuce. Some varieties have red leaves. Avoid heads of with
irregular shapes. Check the lettuce for tip burn, a tan or brown
area around the margins of the leaves. Look for tip burn of the
edges of the head leaves. Slight discoloration of the outer or wrapper
leaves will usually not hurt the quality of the lettuce, but serious
discoloration or decay definitely should be avoided. Chemically,
all lettuces are the same: about 98 percent water with small amounts
of cellulose, sugar, protein, mineral salts and vitamins -- especially
Vitamin A.

|
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| The summer Artichoke tends
to have much more “deadly” thorns on them. Be careful! |
Up until the 1920s, the iceberg that we know today, was known then
as “crisphead” lettuce or simply “head”
lettuce. Obviously, because it looks like a head. In the 1920s,
when this lettuce was harvested in Salinas, California, it was loaded
onto railroad cars for the long trip to Boston, New York or Philadelphia.
Growers would spray shaved ice on top of the lettuce before it left
on the 3,000-mile trip. By the time the railroad cars arrived in
Boston, the ice had slightly melted. When the produce workers opened
the car doors, it literally looked like hundreds of tiny icebergs.
It wasn’t long before the produce workers would announce,
“Heh, another load of icebergs is coming in from California.”
The name “iceberg” stuck. As for Artichokes, this is
really the “off” season. There are two main seasons,
Spring and Fall. In between those two seasons, growers will harvest
the fields maybe once or twice a week. During the summer months,
the Artichoke almost becomes a weapon. In fact, if you put these
summer Artichokes into a bag to take home, I personally think you
should also have a “concealed weapon permit.” Summer
Artichokes are very thorny, and they come to a very sharp point.
So be very careful when choosing Artichokes in the summer.
|
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| Syngenta Seed Company
spent over a decade creating the biggest hit in the Watermelon
patch. |
| |
| In the world of Watermelons,
size matters. Or does it? |
PERSONAL WATERMELON (Tuesday, July 26): It’s
a “Watermelonism.” With Watermelons, size matters. Or
does it? They are the biggest hit the Watermelon patch. Tiny Watermelons.
Personal Watermelons. Just enough for one or two people. Syngenta
Seed Company was the mastermind behind this big hit. It all started
with this thought: Who is this world has room in their refrigerator
for one of those huge 30 pound Texas Watermelons? We end up throwing
$20 worth of perfectly fine leftovers away just to put our $5 gigantasourous
Watermelon into the refrigerator. So off to work Syngenta Seed Company
went. For over a decade, they have been working to hybred a super
sweet Watermelon that could fit in the palm of your hand. The seed
company had to do three things. First, make it seedless. To do that,
you cross a diploid with a tetraploid to come up with a triploid.
It’s genetics talk. It’s kind of like crossing a horse
(that’s your diploid) with a donkey (that’s your tetraploid),
to come up with a mule that does not reproduce (that’s your
triploid). The 2nd thing they had to do was to make it small. They
are only about 5 – 7 pounds each, small enough to fit right
where your gallon of milk sits. No more cleaning out the entire shelf.
The third thing was to make the rind as thin as a cantaloupe rind.
And they did.
| |
| These tiny Watermelons
have the rind as thin as the rind on a Cantaloupe. And they
are just as sweet on the edges, as it is in the heart. That’s
why they’re called “Pure Heart.” |
PERSONAL WATERMELON (Wednesday, July 27): It took
scientists and growers working together about 10 years to come up
with the biggest thing in Watermelons, the tiny personal sized Watermelon.
Its variety name is “Pure Heart.” And it is. The melon
is sweet, from its very core right out to the rind. They may be more
expensive, but they are worth every penny. It may not be big in size,
but believe me, its flavor is big enough for any Texas 10-gallon hat.
That’s why it’s called Pure Heart. The melon is as sweet
and juicy in the very center as it is by the rind. And you’ve
got to see this rind. It had a makeover as well. This Watermelon rind
is only as thick…or should I say as thin…as a Cantaloupe
rind. You’ve got to see it to believe it. Red, sweet, juicy
Watermelon, from the rind the heart. Super sweet. You’ll fall
in the love with the “Pure Heart” personal size Watermelon.
| |
| The Valley of Ica is south
of Lima. |
|
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| The Andes Mountains tower
over the Valley of Ica in Peru. |
ASPARAGUS (Thursday, July 28): Happy Independence
Day! Well, not here. In Peru. Today, Peruvians celebrate their Independence
from Spain, proclaimed in 1821, but finally won in 1824. Well, from
Peru, this time of year, we are getting the major supply of our
Asparagus. In the Valley of Ica, one of the world’s most delicate
vegetables is now being grown. The Valley of Ica is about 4 hours
south of the capital of Peru, Lima. This valley has a rich history
of Inca Indians. In fact, when the valley was being transformed
into farming, farmers would often find remnants of the famous Inca
Empire. Farmers found Incan cooking utensils, pots and pans. Today,
this coastal valley, with rich, sandy soil, grows some of the world’s
best Asparagus. Rich soil helps the crown stay healthy. Sandy soil
allows the tender spears to grow straight and fast. This valley
also has an average yearly rainfall of “zero.” That’s
right. No rain, which would bring decay and disease. This valley
is completely irrigated with deep well water. The well water comes
from deep underground aquifers, fed by pure water from the Andes
Mountains. The Valley of Ica is a somewhat isolated growing region…geographically
anyway. To the north and east are the Andes Mountains. To the south
is the driest desert on earth, the Atacama Desert. To the west is
the Pacific Ocean. It is very difficult for disease or pest to enter
this valley. Growers here, therefore are able to use less pesticides
on their crops. This coastal valley also has near perfect growing
temperatures, warm during the day, but cooled by the ocean breezes
at night. Those cool nights, getting down to the upper 40s, help
produce the very sweet spears of asparagus in Peru. Because of this
very special growing region, and its very special and unique environment,
growers here are able to produce 4 to 5 times more asparagus per
acre than even the famed California Delta region. In 1987, the first
Asparagus crowns were planted in this Valley. It was part of a U.S.
drug program to help Peruvians leave the cocaine drug trade and
begin employment in a different trade. So they went from an illegal
agricultural crop, to a very classy crop. Imports from Peru have
been coming into the United States since 1989. Imports from Peru
have grown by about 25% a year. Last year, the United States imported
about 10 million cartons, about 110 million pounds. Asparagus in
the Valley of Ica is cut, washed, packed and chilled in the mornings.
Then they are trucked to the Lima International airport where they
are loaded onto planes. The next day, that Asparagus is in Miami
or Los Angeles, and then immediately trucked to stores across the
country.
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| Garlic is back…with
all of its great flavor. |
| |
 |
| Nothing like Garlic Mashed
Potatoes. |
GARLIC
(Friday, July 29): This weekend is the annual Gilroy
Garlic Festival, where everyone eats, drinks and desserts with
ice cream…all made of Garlic. So, let’s talk Garlic.
Chicago got its name from the American Indian word for the wild
garlic that grew around Lake Michigan - "chicagaoua".
Enough of the trivia. Up until this time of year, you may have noticed
there was less “stink” in the stinky rose. That’s
because the crop was at the very end of its storage life. The bulbs
had been out of the ground for many months, and that means some
oil content in the bulb had evaporated, leaving less flavor. But
joy, new crop Garlic has started being harvested in California.
And that once again means full flavored Garlic! California produces
more than 250 million pounds of garlic each year. One farm in Monterey
County plants 2000 acres of garlic and produces almost 25 million
pounds annually. Gilroy may be known as the “Garlic Capital
of the World,” but actually, very little Garlic is grown in
Gilroy today compared to a decade or so ago. Although Gilroy does
still have some of the world’s largest Garlic dehydrators,
most of the Garlic crop is grown in the San Joaquin Valley, around
Fresno, and simply trucked over. Trucks and trucks are loaded this
time of year with these darling white cloves. There are over 300
varieties of garlic grown worldwide. American garlic, with its white,
papery skin and strong flavor is one of the most common varieties.
Italian and Mexican garlic, both of which have pink- to purple-colored
skins, are slightly milder-flavored varieties. Elephant garlic (allium
scorodoprasum), which has very large, extremely mild-flavored cloves,
is not a true garlic, but a closer relative to the leek. Garlic.
What would we do without it? Tomatoes and oregano make it Italian;
wine and tarragon make it French. Sour cream makes it Russian; lemon
and cinnamon make it Greek. Soy sauce makes it Chinese; garlic makes
it good. Garlic’s reputation precedes itself. And a ponderous
reputation it is. Garlic has been alleged to perform everything
from curing countless illnesses to warding off evil spirits and
vampires. The Egyptians fed garlic to the slaves who built the pyramids
believing it increased their physical strength. Man has harvested
garlic for at least 5,000 years. Horticulturists argue about its
exact origins but a popular theory places its genesis in, of all
places, Siberia. Modern medicinal claims purport that garlic lowers
cholesterol and blood pressure, aids circulation, alleviates coughs
and colds, and has anti-oxidant and anti-cancer properties. Garlic
contains vitamins B1, B2, and C, niacin, and a wide variety of minerals
including calcium, phosphorous, potassium, selenium, germanium,
zinc and manganese. Miracle bulb or not, Americans consume 300 million
pounds of garlic each year! The only bad thing that can be said
about garlic is it’s odorous side effects. These occur because
the essential oils in garlic permeate the lung membranes and are
then expelled during exhalation. Garlic’s scent also exudes
from our skin. Garlic is a member of the lily family and is related
to the onion clan. The most common types of garlic found in the
US are the American garlic, (colored white), and the Mexican and
Italian garlic which have a purplish or rose colored hue. The American
is the most pungent. Elephant garlic is not real garlic and is exceptionally
mild. The word garlic comes from Old English garleac, meaning "spear
leek." Dating back over 6,000 years, it is native to Central
Asia, and has long been a staple in the Mediterranean region, as
well as a frequent seasoning in Asia, Africa, and Europe. Egyptians
worshipped garlic and placed clay models of garlic bulbs in the
tomb of Tutankhamen. Garlic was so highly prized, it was even used
as currency. And, of course, folklore holds that garlic repels vampires,
protects against the Evil Eye, and warded off jealous nymphs said
to terrorize pregnant women and engaged maidens. And let us not
forget to mention the alleged aphrodisiacal powers of garlic, which
have been extolled through the ages. Surprisingly, garlic was frowned
upon by foodie snobs in the United States until the first quarter
of the twentieth century, being found almost exclusively in ethnic
dishes in working-class neighborhoods. But, by 1940, America had
embraced garlic, finally recognizing its value as not only a minor
seasoning, but as a major ingredient in recipes. One of my favorite
things to do with garlic is to roast it. At what temperature and
for how long depends on whom you ask. An Internet site suggests
325 degrees for an hour and a half. James Peterson’s vegetable
book states 350 to 400 for 35 minutes. My CIA (Culinary Institute
of America) textbook recommends 425 degrees for 20-30 minutes. Go
figure. Just do this. Sprinkle the head with olive oil, loosely
wrap it in foil, and stick it in the oven until the cloves are soft.
The end result is magnificent. You can squeeze the garlic out of
its paper jackets like thick butter and spread it on everything
imaginable. Distribute it under the skin of a chicken before roasting.
Smother your steak or pork chops with it. Or, for a healthy, low-fat,
and tasty vegetable alternative, steam your vegetables and then
cover them with the roasted garlic. You could even temporarily convert
me to healthy eating this way. Speaking of healthy eating, here
are a number of ways of making garlic bread, from lowest to highest
calories. For totally guilt free garlic bread, simply spread the
roasted garlic on toasted slices of bread with no butter or oil.
It won’t be very rich but it will still be delicious. For
semi-decadence, you can sauté chopped garlic in olive oil
and then spread it on the bread and toast it. Here you’ll
pick up some calories but at least the olive oil, devoid of saturated
fat, has some health benefits. If you’re in my camp, then
you believe we should invert the food guide pyramid and laugh in
the face of death. Sauté that chopped garlic in butter and
then spread it, butter and all on the bread. Another mouth-watering
alternative is eating garlic raw. I cannot think of a better example
than bruschetta. Here is an unequivocally delicious, healthy, and
relatively low calorie dish, requiring only a bottle of red to be
transformed into a meal in itself. Chop up tomatoes that are at
the peak of ripeness. Ripe tomatoes are absolutely essential for
that ultimate flavor. Mix in an ample amount of fresh chopped garlic,
some basil, kosher salt, and extra virgin olive oil. (I’ll
leave the amount of olive oil up to you). Lightly brush your sliced
bread with some olive oil, or leave it plain if you like, toast
it in the oven, and then coat with the tomato/garlic mix. Yum! Finally,
to keep these ideas balanced between the dieters and the indulgers,
here’s my recipe for sinfully rich garlic mashed potatoes.
4 Idaho potatoes peeled and chopped into a large dice
6 ounces heavy cream
3 ounces butter
6- 8 cloves garlic
Salt and pepper to taste
Bring the potatoes to a boil and simmer until tender. Finely chop
the garlic and simmer it in the cream and butter for about three
minutes. Strain the pieces of garlic from the cream. Pass the cooked
potatoes through a food mill or a ricer. Add the cream to the potatoes
and mix until smooth. Add salt and pepper to taste. And yeah, you
can cut back on the amount of cream and butter if need be.
Choose heads that are firm to the touch, with no nicks or soft
cloves. If you notice dark, powdery patches under the skin, pass
it up since it is an indication of a common mold, which will eventually
spoil the flesh. Fresh garlic is more difficult to peel. As garlic
ages, it shrivels inside the skin, making it easier to peel. Store
unpeeled garlic in an open container in a cool, dry place away from
other foods. Do not refrigerate or freeze unpeeled garlic. Peeled
garlic cloves may be stored in a sealed container in the refrigerator.
It is imperative that garlic in oil be stored under refrigeration
to avoid potentially-deadly bacteria growth. Garlic powder should
be stored in a cool, dry, dark place. To peel a clove, place it
on a cutting board on its side, and gently press down quickly with
the flat side of a butcher knife. The skin should then easily peel
off. If you find the skin clinging desperately to the clove, congratulations!
You have fresh garlic. As garlic ages, it shrivels inside the skin,
making it easier to peel. So, what causes that smell, you may ask?
When garlic cells are ruptured by cutting or pressing, they release
an enzyme called allinaise chemically changing the inherent alliin
into allicin, a sulfur-containing molecule, which results in that
heady, pungent garlic smell which is a mainstay in kitchens around
the world. These sulphur molecules are absorbed into the bloodstream
and lungs, escaping through exhaled air and perspiration. Thus,
the garlic breath. And, in some people who consume massive quantities,
a noticeable garlicky body odor can result. If you are a garlic-lover,
it's wise to surround yourself with others who enjoy garlic, or
try munching on parsley to rid yourself of garlic breath. And, to
rid your hands of the smell after peeling and/or chopping garlic,
simply wash your hands and then rub your clean hands on a chrome
faucet. It works like magic!
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