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If
you’ve never tried Savoy Cabbage, then read on. We want
to make you savvy about Savoy. |
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| Savoy Cabbage
is a true culinary treasure, the best for cooking. |
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A
field of Savoy Cabbage being grown in Yuma. |
SAVOY CABBAGE (Monday, Feb. 21): We’re going
to make you savvy about Savoy. What? You have never used Savoy Cabbage?
What? You don’t even know what Savoy Cabbage is? Oh, my, we
have our work cut out for us today. We’ll take you on the
Savoy Express. Savoy Cabbage is a headed cabbage, but it is the
wrinkly, crinkly cabbage with a much looser leaf structure than
regular green cabbage. Cabbage is one of a long list of crucifers,
which also includes broccoli, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, radishes,
kale, collards, turnips, rutabagas, turnip and mustard greens. All
of these vegetables have powerful antioxidant power. The cultivation
of cabbage goes back 4000 years. Between China and Mongolia, horsemen
learned to preserve this vegetable in brine and it became the staple
food of the builders of the Great Wall of China in the third century
BC. Later, pickled cabbage arrived in Europe from the East, carried
by Hun and Mongol cavalcades. While these horsemen introduced a
new conservation method and Barbarian flavor to Europe, cabbage
had nonetheless long been the favorite vegetable of an entire continent,
particularly until the introduction of the potato. In fact, the
Celts may have introduced cabbage to the British Isles as early
as the 4th century BC. For centuries, cabbage was a staple that
sustained European populations during great famines. During the
Hundred Years War, battles were won or lost depending on whether
fresh provisions of cabbage had arrived at the soldiers' camps.
Savoy types wee developed later being first recorded in Germany
in the middle of the 16th century. It was not until 1536 in Europe
that unmistakably clear descriptions of hard-heading cabbage were
recorded. At that time also a loose-heading form called romanos,
and later called chou d'Italie and chou de Savoys, for the Italian
province, was described. This "savoy cabbage," a crumpled-leaved
kind having high quality, was grown in England in the 1500's. It
was most likely named for the region it may have either originated
or was popular, the Savoy region in the Alps, between Italy and
France. The “House of Savoy” became a dynasty in this
region of the world. New York grows the most fres-market cabbage
in the United States, followed by Texas, Florida and California.
For processed cabbage, Wisconsin is king, and it all goes for sauerkraut.
Washington State grows virtually all the cabbage seed used for commercial
farming. Savoy cabbage is one of the best cabbages for cooking.
It is not only a mild and delicious tasting cabbage but because
it requires less cooking time than the white or green cabbage, is
the preferred cabbage by many chefs, especially for stuffed cabbage
rolls. When picking out the best Savoy, make sure the leaves are
crisp, not limp. Savoy Cabbage, because of its larger cell structure,
wilts rapidly in dry storage, so keep it refrigerated. And keep
it in a plastic bag, also to help prevent dehydration. Cabbage should
be washed just before using -- extra moisture in storage will accelerate
deterioration. When cooking cabbage, place only ½ to ¾
inch of water in the pan. Too much water will cause the cabbage's
color to fade, nutrients and flavor to be lost, and the cabbage
to become soggy and limp. To prepare Savoy Cabbage leaves for stuffing,
first wilt them in boiling water, then whack the main rib with the
blunt side of a knife so the leaves will roll more smoothly. Unfortunately,
cabbage is closely associated in many people’s minds with
overcooking, accompanied by an awful odor. “Open up all the
windows. Fumigate the house. She’s cooking cabbage again.”
Overcooking cabbage by just two minutes will double the amount of
sulfuric compounds which end up smelling like rotten eggs. That’s
right. The distinctive odor of cooking cabbage actually doubles
in intensity during the fifth through seventh minutes of boiling.
To reduce the odor, try cooking the cabbage in five minutes or less.
The smaller the head, the less cooking time is needed. But, why
does Cabbage sometimes make your tummy all rumbly with noise. Well,
that’s what Winnie the Pooh would say. Anyway, the cellulose
fiber in cabbage leaves contains a substance that tends to ferment
in the intestines, producing unpleasant and noisy effects! But there's
a simple solution to prevent such problems and to overcome cabbage's
indigestibility. Blanch the cabbage in water, allowing it to cook
for a good five minutes after the water comes to the boil. Discard
the water; cover with fresh water and continue cooking. Keep in
mind, too, that Chinese varieties are much more digestible and have
fewer "gaseous" effects. Despite it’s humble culinary
reputation, cabbage is, in fact, loaded with vitamins B and C, iron,
potassium, and calcium. One way to preserve the nutrients and flavor
is to eat it raw in salads or slaw or to cook it briefly; if you’re
adding it to soups or stews, cook it until the leaves are softened,
not limp. Savoy cabbage, because it is tender and sweet, particularly
benefits from quick cooking; try it sautéed or in a stir-fry.
As the leaves are beautiful, they can be very effective blanched
and wrapped, like grape leaves, around a filling. To add a different
flavor to your sandwich, add shredded cabbage instead of lettuce.
Add shredded Savoy to your tacos instead of lettuce. In England,
leftover cooked cabbage is fried with potatoes to create a traditional
dish called "bubble and squeak"…. named for the
sound it makes as it cooks and as you eat it! Oh, by the way, later
on in history in Belgium, the Savoy Cabbage mutated. It became…Brussels
Sprouts.
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The
largest of the Artichokes are now arriving. |
ARTICHOKES
(Tuesday, Feb. 22): It’s time to go for the “globe.”
The globe Artichoke. And right now, the world of Artichokes is one
big Globe. And I do mean “big.” In fact, these are called
“Colossal” Artichokes. These chokes are huge, enormous,
gigantic, massive, softball-size. They are the biggest thing with
thorns in the produce department. They are giants. And they are
the first Artichokes of the Spring season. The crown pick is what
growers call them. These largest of the Artichokes are called "terminal"
buds produced at the end of the long central stems. Each Artichoke
plant only puts out one terminal bud, only one colossal Artichoke.
They may be large, but you may find some blistering on them as well.
You know what chapped lips are, right? You’re out in cold,
wintry, windy conditions, and it becomes easy for your lips to become
chapped. Well, during this time of year, Artichokes get “chapped
lips.” The Italian growers in Castroville affectionately called
these Artichokes, “Winter Kissed.” The colder night
temperatures cause the tender membranes on the Artichoke leaves
to become burned. These artichokes look quite ugly right now, but
these are the Artichokes that the Italians dream of, not for their
appearance, but for their flavor. When it’s cold outside,
you will tend to put on more layers when you go outside. Maybe another
sweater or a coat. Artichoke plants will do the same thing. In order
to protect the delicate artichoke heart, the leaves will add layers
of “coats.” There will be more meat on the leaves. That’s
why when you pick one of these “winter kissed” chokes
up, they are heavier than most artichokes. That’s because
the leaves are bulging with more meat. The colder temperatures also
make for a better flavor. So, they may not look like much, but these
artichokes are worth eating. Peak of the season for this Spring
delicacy is just now beginning. During a six-week period, from early
March through mid-April, from about St. Patrick’s Day to Mother’s
Day, that’s when about 40 – 50% of the annual crop is
harvested. And that will mean the best pricing. By the way, the
Artichoke is neither a fruit nor a vegetable. It can be called the
original “edible flower.” The Artichoke is actually
the flowering bud of the Mediterranean Thistle plant. One more thing.
This year, Artichoke growers in Castroville have not only had to
fight the weather, but they are fighting thieves. Thieves who know
what they are doing. In the dead of night, they are entering the
unfenced fields of Artichokes, and cleanly cutting off these colossal
terminal Artichokes. Thousands of them are missing, and it’s
costing growers tens of thousands of dollars.
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Cool
Pacific Ocean breezes flow up the river ways of the California
Delta, cooling the spears of Asparagus grown on the many “islands”
of the Delta. |
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The
Delta growing region produces the sweetest Asparagus grown.
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ASPARAGUS (Wednesday, Feb. 23): Today is the day.
February 23rd. It’s the date when many Asparagus growers in
the largest growing region in America, begin getting their long
knives out, and begin cutting the first spears of the season. The
Delta growing region of California is world renowned as having some
of the finest, most tender, sweet spears grown anywhere in the world.
In fact, this time of year, you’ll find foreign buyers in
the fields and in the packing sheds, buying their grass. Asparagus
from California’s Delta will be picked, washed, sorted, crated,
and then loaded onto airplanes for a 12-hour flight to Japan, Taiwan
or to Western Europe to Austria, Germany or Switzerland. Many of
the finest resorts and hotels around the world can’t wait
for the Delta Asparagus. But it’s on their menu now. The Delta
growing region is a very unique environment. There are hundreds
of miles of waterways, stretching out like a spider web from the
Pacific Ocean inland toward Stockton and Lodi. These waterways prove
to be a perfect passage for cool Pacific breezes, cooling the spears
at night, which helps make Delta Asparagus very sweet. This region
is also made up of many “islands,” soil that is very
sandy. This makes for very tender Asparagus. Remember to store your
Asparagus in a mug of water. Simply cut off the very bottom of the
spears, like you would with a bouquet of flowers. Then refrigerate
in the mug. Those spears will stay much fresher, much longer. You
may think that the thinner Asparagus spears may be the best. Not
so. The fatter they are, the sweeter they are. The fatter they are,
the more tender they are. Buy the fat ones. You should also peel
your Asparagus spears. At least the fat one. Any good chef trained
in Europe will peel the Asparagus. Lay the spears on a hard surface
and use a vegetable peeler. Be careful with the pressure you put
on the spear. It could snap. Brush the spers with a little Olive
Oil, then throw them on the grill. When you pull them off the grill,
a little salt, a little pepper, a little squeeze of fresh lemon
juice on the spear. Then serve. You won’t need any mayonnaise
with these spears of Asparagus.
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Some of these early
peach varieties are already in blossom. |
BLOSSOM TIME (Thursday, Feb. 24): Watch the weather.
Especially watch the weather in major growing regions of the country
that give us summer and fall fruits. Blossoms have started popping
on trees. That means Spring is just around the corner. This time
of year, the San Joaquin Valley in California becomes like a huge
painting, with brilliant colors of blossoms on fruit and nut trees.
As pretty as it may be, it is also a very critical time for growers.
You see, every blossom is a piece of fruit. That delicate blossom
is exposed to the elements of weather. Too cold, and the blossom
will freeze. Too hot, and the blossom will melt off. Too windy and
rainy, the blossoms will fall off before they have had a chance
to be pollinated. During this blossom time, from now into April,
watch the weather, from the peach orchards in Georgia and the Carolinas
to the vast stonefruit orchards in California to the apple orchards
in Washington. For the next four weeks, weather will determine how
much fruit will be harvested this summer and fall, and how much
we'll pay for it. By the way, have you ever wondered why the fruit
blossoms are so brightly colored? Well, bees are a little blind.
The blossoms have to be bright to attract these blind bees to help
pollination.
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| Broccolini.
It’s new.
It’s elegant.
|
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| Broccolini
costs more because
it is so labor intensive, but
it is also 100% edible.
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BROCCOLINI
(Friday, Feb. 25): At this weekend’s Academy Awards, starring
at dinners for the rich and famous in Hollywood, is Broccolini. It
came out a marriage. A marriage between Broccoli and Gai Lon, also
known as Chinese Kale. It is a crisp, slender vegetable, originally
hybred to be a broccoli variety that was more heat resistant so that
it could be grown in warmer growing climates. Officiating at the wedding
was Japanese Sakata Seed Company. The marriage took place in the late
1980s, but commercially did not become marketed until the late 1990s.
Sakata originally called its creation “Asparation,” which
is what it is marketed as by one grower. Another grower, the king
of Broccoli, is Mann Packing. They call it “Broccolini, sweet
baby broccoli. Broccolini has a long, slender stem that kind of resembles
Asparagus. This stem is very tender and sweet. The head looks like
a mini head of broccoli, but you may notice some yellow flowers here
and there. That’s the Gai Lon coming out in the Broccoli. The
Gai Lon also gives Broccolini that slight peppery after taste. Broccolini
is more expensive than Asparagus and Broccoli. It is very difficult
to grow and to harvest. Very labor intensive. In a regular Broccoli
field, harvesters may pick a field maybe three times. But with Broccolini,
because of how it is grown, harvesters may go through the same field
up to 9 times. And the handling is more as well. A bunch of broccoli
has two to three spears. A bunch of Broccolini has 18 – 24 spears.
That’s a lot more cutting. A lot more labor. Even at the higher
prices, Broccolini is still a great value. It is virtually 100% edible,
with virtually no prep time. When purchasing Broccolini, look for
bright green spears with florets that don’t show any signs of
wilting. When you get them home, wrap the bunch in a paper towel and
then into a plastic bag. Refrigerate for up to a week. There’s
hardly any prep time. Just rinse them off. Any way you cook Asparagus,
you can cook Broccolini. Any way you cook Broccoli, you can cook Broccolini.
It’s a pretty versatile vegetable. Broccolini has a very elegant
plate or salad presentation. Broccolini, since it is in the Broccoli
family, is part of the "Crown Jewel of Nutrition" for its
vitamin-rich, high in fiber, and low in calorie properties. Not only
does broccoli give you the best vegetable nutrition available, it
also gives you many ways to lead a healthier, longer life. Heart disease
is the number one cause of death in the United States with cancer
as the second, and broccoli gives you many ways to help fight and
prevent these and other diseases. A medium size stalk of broccoli
provides 220% of your daily value of vitamin C. That same medium stalk
of broccoli provides 15% of your daily value of vitamin A, in the
form of beta carotene (% Daily Value is based on a 2000 kcal diet).
Both vitamin C and beta carotene are antioxidants, which is a substance
that can reduce and prevent the damage caused to human cells by free
radicals. Free radicals are a "toxic" byproduct of everyday
metabolism, but in excessive number, free radicals may be a factor
in diseases as cancer, arthritis, Alzheimer's, and heart disease.
A study done by Dr. Harman of the University of Nebraska College of
Medicine, suggests that free radicals play a significant role in the
aging process: cataracts, heart disease, and cancer. Dr. Robert Russell
of the Center on Aging also stresses that foods, not pills, are the
most reliable source of antioxidants.
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