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| If you’re looking
for the perfect Plum, pick a Pluot. |
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| Floyd’s daughter,
Leith, is also helping create the next generation of stonefruit.
Here, she explains the tedious process, which includes thousands
of pollen crossings every single year. |
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Meet Floyd Zaiger,
the “Albert Einstein of Stonefruit.” |
PLUOT (Monday, August 1): JK Rowling turned 40
yesterday. Her newest Harry Potter book has already broken records
for sales. Well, let’s talk about the hottest stonefruit in
the orchard this year. It, too is breaking sales records. Meet Floyd
Zaiger. He has spent over 40 years of his life, tinkering around
the pollen of Peaches, Plums, Nectarines, Apricots and Cherries.
He’s been on the hunt for the perfect fruit. He’s the
“Albert Einstein of Stonefruit.” If you are in pursuit
of the perfect Plum, pick a Pluot. Sounds more like some new imported
car. Sold commercially for the first time in 1989, the Pluot (75%
plum, 25% apricot) was developed by Professor Pluot, better known
to his family as Floyd Zaiger, a California fruit breeder determined
to improve upon the plumcot, a 50-50 mix developed a century ago
by Luther Burbank. The Pluot is an “interspecific,”
a complex hybrid that Zaiger developed over several generations
of trees, sweeter than the average plum. Certainly something about
the word “pluot” evokes images of laboratories and gene
splicing rather than fruit trees and farmers. These have not been
genetically modified. Remember, the first plum/apricot cross happened
over a century ago in Santa Rosa, California by Luther Burbank,
who also happened to hybred the Burbank Russet Potato. What Zaiger
did was take the 50/50 Plumcot from Burbank and cross it one more
time with another Plum, making the Pluot 75% Plum and 25% Apricot.
In the early days of Zaiger’s work, almost all of the original
plum-apricot crosses were sterile, but a few bore fruit, and Zaiger
started saving the seedlings of the most flavorful ones for further
crossings. Even today, Zaiger’s hybridization is painstaking,
involving elaborate climate control and transferring pollen with
an eyebrow brush. Now that’s an Extreme makeover. Still to
come from the Zaiger Nursery, slated for 2010: white apricots, nectaplums,
peacotums and…well, he’ll tell us later. By the way,
Zaiger continues a long heritage of great fruit breeders. One of
the greatest in our time was, of course, Luther Burbank. One of
Burbank’s students was Fred Anderson, who happened to come
up with the very first yellow-fleshed Nectarine in the 1940s. It
revolutionized the Nectarine industry. One of Anderson’s students
was…you guessed it, Floyd Zaiger. “Breeding stonefruit
is a lot like playing poker,” Zaiger tells me. “Except,
in poker, when you get a good hand, you’re done. In what I
do, when I get a good hand, I keep playing.”
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White fleshed
stonefruit is hot. |
WHITE
STONEFRUIT (Tuesday, August 2): Our great-grandparents
knew all about white flesh peaches and nectarines. In fact, up until
WWII, all Nectarines were white flesh. White flesh stonefruit are
very fragile, which is why they went out of popularity in the 50s.
American families were on the go. They need a peach or nectarine
that could go on the go with them. Yellow-fleshed peaches and nectarines
have a firmer flesh that holds up better and will last longer, which
is what the consumer began demanding back in the 50s. So the white
flesh varieties became less popular and eventually disappeared,
except at a few farmers markets in the middle of summer. Today,
the popularity of white flesh stonefruit has jumped dramatically.
Just a decade ago, only about 1% of the stonefruit crop was white
in flesh. Today, it’s closing in on about 20 - 25% of the
crop. On this date, 1815, Wellington defeated Napoleon at the Battle
of Waterloo. It was rumored that the fight was over white flesh
nectarines. White flesh nectarines were so adored by the kings and
queens of England, that harvesters would literally harvest the fruit
and place it on a pillow to be taken to the King or Queen. Many
of the white flesh peaches and nectarines today have much lower
acid content, which is why the taste sweet. But many times, the
acid in a fruit provides a good balance for the sugar, giving a
piece of fruit a richer flavor. Because the white flesh stonefruit
has less acid, the fruit will taste just as sweet when they are
mature and firm as they will when they are soft and ripe. This makes
the white flesh peaches and nectarines a good cooking fruit, especially
for grilling. The flesh is firmer, so it holds up better during
the cooking process.
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| Celery Root. It may very
well be the ugliest root in the produce department. |
CELERY ROOT (Wednesday, August 3): Despite its
association with root vegetables, celery root (or celeriac, as it
is sometimes called) has a certain panache. Perhaps this is due
to its honored place in the French specialty, celery remoulade,
or because it makes such luxurious pairings with dried cepes or
with tender artichoke hearts. In the form of a distinctive salad
or soup, celery root is often served apart from the meal, either
first or as a separate course. As one old American cookbook suggests:
"Serve....after the roast-piece of the dinner." Most cookbooks,
however, simply ignored the vegetable, also called soup celery,
celery knob, and turnip rooted celery -- by any name. In fact, it
enjoys wide popularity in this country only in German communities,
where it is pureed and in stews. Celery Root has a pungent celery-like
flavor and is, in fact, a special variety of celery, developed by
gardeners during the Renaissance. In recipes calling for cauliflower,
fennel or cardoon, celery root makes an interesting and unexpected
substitute if not a quantum improvement. This ugly root is also
known as “celeriac,” “celery knob” or “German
celery.” This underrated vegetable is a relative of celery
that's been developed for its root, which has a pleasant celery
flavor. It's popular in France and Northern Europe, where it's usually
peeled and cooked in stews or grated and served raw. It’s
available year-round, but is in peak supply during the Winter, from
October through April. The sprouting tops should have a bright color
to them, a sign of freshness. Make sure there is no decay on the
root. When you get it home, wrap it in a plastic bag and refrigerate
for up to a week.
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| Australian Citrus availability
chart. |
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“Gooday mate. How
about
a Navel Orange?” |
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| Citrus is grown in the
southeastern part of Australia. |
NAVEL ORANGES (Thursday, August 4): Aussie Navels
are here. From the land down under comes the premier eating orange
in the world, the Navel Orange. West of the Murray River, it’s
wasteland. East of the Murray River, it’s an agricultural
paradise. And the Australian growers have two brothers from California
to thank for their rich agricultural heritage. The Chaffey Brothers,
from Fresno, California, immigrated to Australia in the late 1800s.
There, they became the pioneers of irrigation on the southeast coast
of Australia, setting the stage for the agricultural industry to
flourish in Australia. You will find the same street names in Fresno
as you do in Renmark, South Australia. That’s where the Chaffey
Brothers settled. Today, this region grows one of the finest eating
quality Navel Oranges found anywhere in the world. The climate in
southeastern Australia is very similar to the San Joaquin Valley
in California. That’s where 90% of America’s Navel Oranges
are grown. In Southeastern Australia, a thriving citrus crop is
grown, packed and then exported to the Pacific Rim and North America.
“There isn’t a mid-season Navel Orange that has the
perfect blend of sugar and acid, as do the Australian Navel Orange,”
says Trevor Warren, a citrus grower in South Australia. Most citrus
is grown in three states, South Australia, New South Wales and Victoria.
Here, the climate is similar to the San Joaquin Valley with cold,
frosty winters and warm, summer days. Here, also, irrigation is
a premium…and costly. Most growers, according to Warren, have
gone to either drip irrigation or micro-jet irrigation, both technologies
gained from farmers in Israel. “You will find very little
open flow irrigation in Australia,” Warren says. “There
is simply too much evaporation with open flow irrigation, and we
need every drop of water we can get.” Australian growers started
the process of exporting to the United States in the early 1980s.
It took 15 years to convince the USDA that the pests in Australia
would be quarantined and would pose no threat to citrus crops in
the United States. So, in 1992, the first Aussie Navels made their
way to the United States. About 400,000 cartons were imported that
year. This year, Australia expects to ship about 1.5 million cartons
of Navel Oranges to the United States. Growers in Australia say
that this year’s crop is one of the cleanest. Usually, desert
winds will dangle the oranges in the tree, causing some scarring.
But this year, winds were at a minimum, so scarring will be at a
minimum as well, leaving some very clean fruit.
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| To freshen your breath,
instead of getting the Certs or Altoids, a bunch of Parsley
will do the same thing. |
PARSLEY (Friday, August 5): Tomorrow is “National
Fresh Breath” day. So what does fresh breath have to do with
produce? Better still, what does fresh breath have to do with today’s
topic: Parsley? Most of us just think of Parsley as a garnish on
a plate in a restaurant. There are main types of parsley we see
in the stores. There is the curly leaf type, and there is the flat
leaf type, or Italian Parsley. If you are cooking, many chefs prefer
to use the flat Italian Parsley because it has a more culinary flavor.
Both of these types of Parsley also have great breath freshening
qualities. The chlorophyll, which makes up the green in Parsley,
is nature’s breath freshener. So, don’t throw the Parsley
away. After a meal, brush your teeth…with Parsley.
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